SWEET TEETH
When I think about my ideal vacation, it involves spending 16 hours a day exploring a new city. I love familiarizing myself with a place’s public transit and zipping from neighborhood to neighborhood, filling the week with museums, food, parks, and shops. My boyfriend, Niko, on the other hand, much prefers a vacation on which he stations himself in a lounge chair on a beach and relaxes the day away.
To satisfy both of us, we’ve developed a system where we take turns selecting destinations and planning itineraries. Last year, Niko brought us to Puerto Vallarta, where we spent days sprawled out on the sand, and nights packed like sardines into gay bars. This year, I wanted to revisit Mexico in a more active way, so I dragged us to Mexico City for a week spent on our feet.



We trekked from library to temple to museum, stopping often for snacks in between. I received so many great recommendations for delicious spots to hit that it was impossible to get to them all, but we sure as hell tried, devouring taco after tostada after quesadilla. I’ve probably eaten more pork in the past week than I had in the entire year preceding.
Though we had perfect bites at nearly every place we hit, I thought it would be fun to count down my five favorite meals from the trip.
So without further ado…
1. Odette
Odette is a perfect little bakery, nestled a block away from Parque México (a perfect spot to sit on a bench and gorge on pastries). If I didn’t have a list of 10+ bakeries to try, I would’ve hit this one every morning. Niko and I spent the week trying guava pastry after guava pastry, but Odette’s crujiente de guayaba was by far our favorite. It was fluffy and packed with guava flavor, without being sogged down by wet jam or cheese, perhaps my favorite bite of the entire trip!
2. Baldio
A delightful restaurant that prides itself on being extremely seasonal and zero waste. The menu is constantly changing to suit what is available from the network of farmers they work with. A lot of the cocktails use fermentation or infused syrups to ensure that every part of every vegetable or fruit is being used. I had an incredible corn-forward drink that utilized a miso made from corn kernels, a syrup made from the cobs and silk, and a sugar smoked in the charred husks. Half the fun of the meal is cracking the puzzle to see where each part of each ingredient is used on the menu.
3. Mi Compa Chava
Niko hates seafood, and that is the only reason I would ever break up with him (he, rightfully, has a much longer list of reasons to dump me). Normally, I’m quite good and patient about it, gently tucking away my dreams of ordering a whole grilled fish or the romantic thoughts of splitting a bowl of mussels and French fries, but when enough people told me I had to hit Mi Compa Chava, I had to put my foot down.
They have seafood in just about every form, but we opted for a sampler with tuna, yellowtail, crab claws, octopus, and pickled and poached shrimp. It was all doused in a variety of sauces and salsas, making for a delicious, sweet, and spicy bite. Shockingly, Niko played along and choked down a few shrimp to appease me—I think he might have even enjoyed them a little.
4. Masala y Maíz
Masala y Maíz fuses South Asian, East African, and Mexican cuisines to build a menu that feels extremely personal and important to the chefs. From the samosas to the paratha quesadilla to the pipián paneer, each dish blended cultures, resulting in flavors unlike anything I’ve ever had. The restaurant is built on its belief that food and social justice exist hand in hand, which burns bright in every aspect of the experience. A good meal is delicious, but a great one can really leave you reeling for days, which is how I felt after eating here.
5. Tacos! Tacos! And a quesadilla!



While all the other food I’ve eaten the past week has been outstanding, my favorite bites have been all the tacos we’ve nibbled on in between visits to stores or museums. From street vendors to fine-dining restaurants with a taqueria attached, every bite of tortilla we had the whole trip was immaculate.
I figured I’d highlight a few of my favorite tacos (and in one case, a quesadilla) that we had. This is certainly cheating because it isn’t one specific spot, but my blog, my rules.
The Al Pastor from Taquería Las Rejas was a standout. You can get little mini tacos, so this is the perfect snack after a morning spent walking around the Anthropology Museum or the Botanic Garden.
After a day spent exploring a few different neighborhoods, we popped into Maizajo for some longanisa and fried chicken tacos. We got to stand right in front of the flattop and watch the well-oiled machine of the team making tortillas and grilling meat.
Our other favorite was a quesadilla we had from a street vendor named Elenita, stuffed with cheese and squash blossoms. She made each tortilla to order and has specific salsas to pair with each filling, making for the perfect bite.
Now that I’ve hit you with an eating itinerary for the next time you find yourself in Mexico City, let’s get into this week's recipe… which has nothing to do with what you’ve read so far.
I’m continuing with my May flowers theme, despite how rainy, cold, and dreary it has been in New York this month. It seems April showers have just brought May showers…
This week’s recipe is the perfect springtime cookie. I start with a soft sugary base, flavored lightly with some rose water. The dough is then rolled in a freeze-dried raspberry sugar mixture to make a spring snickerdoodle of sorts. The final result is a perfectly pink cookie with a tangy crusty outside and a soft, floral middle. They’ll make your kitchen smell like the garden, even if it’s grey and drizzling outside.
THE RECIPE
RASPBERRY ROSE SUGAR COOKIES
makes 32 cookies
Ingredients:
For the dough:
2 1/2 cups (320g) all-purpose flour
2 tsp (6g) cream of tartar
1 tsp (4g) baking soda
1 tsp (4g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt*
1/2 tsp (2g) baking powder
16 tbsp (2 sticks/226g) unsalted butter, softened
1 1/3 cups (266g) granulated sugar
1 large (50g) egg
1 tsp (4g) pure vanilla extract
1/2 tsp (2g) rose water
For the rolling sugar:
1/3 cup (66g) granulated sugar
2 tbsp (6g) freeze-dried raspberry powder**
Directions:
Preheat & prep: Preheat your oven to 350°. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.
Whisk together your dry ingredients: In a medium bowl, whisk together your all-purpose flour, salt, cream of tartar, baking powder, and baking soda. Set aside.
Make your cookie dough: In the bowl of your stand mixer, combine your butter and 1 1/3 cups of sugar. Beat on medium-high for 3 minutes, or until it is light and fluffy. Turn off the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add in your egg, vanilla extract, and rose water, and beat on medium-high until combined, 1 minute. Turn off, scrape down the sides of the bowl, and add in your dry ingredients. Once added, slowly pulse the mixer until just combined.
Coat your cookies: In a small container or bowl, mix together the 1/3 cup sugar and freeze-dried raspberry powder. Using a .78 ounce (#40) cookie scoop*** or weighing out 30g of dough, portion out your cookies. One at a time, drop the dough balls in the sugar mixture and shake to cover all sides. Place 8 cookies on each baking sheet, at least an inch-and-a-half apart.
Bake: Place your two sheets on separate racks and bake until they have just darkened on the edges, 12-14 minutes, swapping the baking sheets halfway through. Allow your baking sheets to cool for at least 10 minutes if reusing them, and repeat Steps 4 and 5 to bake off the remaining cookie dough. Let cookies cool and enjoy!
Leftovers?: Store in an airtight container for up to 5 days.
Notes:
*If you’re using any other type or brand of salt (i.e. Morton, or sea salt), I suggest scaling back by 1/2.
**Instead of buying raspberry powder, I just buy a standard bag of freeze-dried raspberries and blitz them up. I use the leftovers in oatmeal, smoothies, or make a quick batch of Fruity Chocolate Shell.
***In a pinch, you can also portion out 1.5 tablespoons worth of the dough into balls.
We made these cookies today for a party—huge hit!